If you are just getting started with watercolor, you may have noticed that there are SO MANY choices for watercolor paper! There are different brands, types of paper, weights of paper and more. It's great to have so many choices, but it can be overwhelming trying to decide which paper to use. Your paper choices will also be fairly personal. We all have different preferences when it comes to the paper we use, but I'll share how I choose what paper to use for my paintings, and how you can go about finding the paper(s) that works best for you.
When I first started with watercolor, I bought watercolor kits that came with paints and paper. This made it a bit easier to get started, because I didn't have to think about the supplies. I just needed a brush and some water and I was good to go. That is a great way to get started, but if that is not an option for you, or once you've done that for a bit and you want to start getting your own supplies, it can be helpful to know how to choose the best paper for you.
Paper Weight
Let's start with the basics. Because watercolor is typically a very wet medium, you need a paper that can handle that. Depending on how many washes of water you typically use, you may need a heavier weight of paper. It's always best to start with at least 140lb paper for watercolor. Anything lighter than that will buckle when water is applied. If you like to work with a lot of water, 260lb or 300lb paper may suit you better. I've been fairly happy with the 140lb for most of my uses, and it is the most commonly sold watercolor paper weight. I use quite a few layers in my paintings, but it's not so much that I need a heavier weight paper. The heavier weight paper will come at a higher price point.
Hot-Pressed or Cold Pressed
Watercolor paper is typically sold as cold-pressed or hot-pressed paper. This refers to the way that the paper is made, and also describes the texture of the paper. Hot-pressed is typically smoother and better suited for finer, more detailed paintings. Cold-pressed works really well for many styles of watercolor painting and has a rougher texture (or more "tooth" to it as some may describe it. Some brands even sell a "rough" textured paper that has even more tooth to it. I personally love a rough textured paper, especially for landscapes and using granulating paints (more on that another time). Even with my more detailed style of painting, I find myself always gravitating towards a rougher texture paper. I just like the way it handles the watercolor, how it feels when I'm painting, and that extra bit of texture in the final painting.
Composition of Paper
Another consideration to make when choosing watercolor paper is whether you want 100% cotton or some other variation of paper. Wood-pulp paper is typically cheaper and may be a good starter paper, but keep in mind that different paints will react differently on wood-pulp paper vs 100% cotton paper due to the way the paper absorbs the water. Concentrated liquid paints tend to react better with the wood-pulp paper than pans/tubes. It is also helpful to be aware of the acidity of the paper. If your paper isn't acid-free, it may start to yellow over time. If you want your painting to last, this is especially important to be aware of.
When I first started, the kits that I purchased used concentrated liquid watercolors and wood-pulp paper (like Canson XL). This type of paper seems to do really well with those paints. If you prefer to use pans and/or tube paints, 100% cotton seems to work best with those paints. Now that I've been painting awhile, I find that I personally prefer pans and tube paints, so I typically use 100% cotton paper. My personal favorite brand is Arches. I've tried multiple papers, and Arches has the most consistent results for me, but I'm always trying new types of paper to see how they work, too.
Paper Block, Pad or Loose Sheets?
Finally, there several different ways to purchase your papers. They are sold in loose sheets, in a pad, and/or on a block. What is the difference and is there a benefit to one over the other? In a watercolor paper block, the paper is attached on all 4 sides, with a small space left open to help remove the sheet when you are finished with your painting. This is helpful if you want to paint edge to edge and/or not have to worry about taping your paper to a table or board. Since the sheet is attached on all 4 sides, it helps to prevent buckling when more water is applied. The main drawback for me with blocks is that I typically use a lightboard to transfer my sketches, and that's not possible with a block. I also like to work on multiple paintings at a time, so I either need multiple blocks, or I just get my paper loose or in a pad, so I can have multiple paintings going at one time. Watercolor blocks are also typically more expensive than pads or loose sheets.
Pads of paper can be more convenient. You have the same size, texture and composition paper all in one spot. It can be easier to store and keep track of. They are typically more cost effective than blocks, but more expensive than loose sheets, especially as you are committing to a certain number of sheets of paper. Loose sheets are typically the most cost effective, and if you aren't sure what paper you like best, it can be helpful to buy a large sheet of different brands and styles, so you can try multiple options and find what works best for you in a more cost effective way than buying pads/blocks of each brand.
My Recommendations
When I paint, I typically use Arches acid-free, 100% cotton, 140 lb (300GSM) cold-pressed watercolor paper. I have also tried Hahnemuhle paper (I personally like a bit more tooth, so I prefer their rough textured paper, as their cold-pressed paper doesn't have as much texture as Arches cold-pressed paper), Fabriano, Winsor and Newton, and more. These are all good brands, but I find I reach for the Arches paper the most. Even though I typically prefer Arches, I continue to try new papers and experiment to see what else is out there. I also love working on Leather Village handmade papers when doing landscapes. Their paper has a lot of texture and is fun to experiment with.
In the end, it is mostly personal preference. As long as the paper meets your needs as far as weight, texture, and composition, I encourage you to experiment with different brands and find the one(s) that you prefer. Don't let your paper frustrate you and discourage you from painting. If you are struggling with how your paint moves on one paper, try another brand! You may be surprised at the difference.
If you are just starting out, use what you have access to. It's better to just start than to worry about not having the right materials. When you are ready to upgrade some of your supplies, I would start with paper. A good quality paper can make a world of difference in the outcome of your paintings, regardless of what paints and brushes you are using. Another tip is to start with smaller paintings, if you need to conserve your paper. The more you practice, the better you will get, so painting small will help your paper go farther. I hope you found this information helpful and that you are now more confident in choosing some paper so you can get to painting!